Continuous Alarm on 70hp Evinrude Outboard
Regarding how to improve the connections in an electrical connector like the large, circular, red, rubber-body Amphenol multi-pole connector used by Evinrude on their engine electrical harnesses to connect to the remote controls until the introduction of the MWS system in c.1996:
The mating of these large rubber body connectors will be made much easier if you apply some alcohol to the rubber bodies of the two connectors. Wetting the rubber slightly with alcohol will allow the connectors to be mated with much less difficulty than if both are dry, and the alcohol evaporates away a few moments later. Do not use alcohol that is diluted in water; looking for isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol that is at least 70-percent alcohol.
Also, I would NEVER use a carbonated soda beverage as a contact cleaner for electrical contacts, except as a last resort in an emergency. The electrical contacts in the Evinrude Amphenol connector are silver-plated. You should be able to restore good conductivity to them by using a spray application of WD40, wetting the contacts, then shaking off the excess WD40. The engine shut-off circuit for the safety lanyard switch is one of the conductors in this contact; this circuit carries several hundred volts, so do not energize the circuit when the contacts are still wet with WD40. You just want a film of WD40 on the actual contact surfaces, not puddles of it in the connector housing. In a case of extreme corrosion of the electrical contacts, I would attempt to burnish the surfaces of the male contacts (pins) by careful wet-sanding with WD40 and extremely fine emery cloth.
Do not apply gobs of grease sold as dielectric grease to the contacts or the connector body. The connector body will make its own tight seal, rubber on rubber, and does not need grease. Use alcohol as I described above to help mate the connector. Please note that dielectric grease is an excellent insulator; it has no conductivity. It cannot improve electrical current flow. It should never be applied to any electrical contact. Dielectric grease is only used with some connectors as a lubricant and sealant for the connector body surfaces that have to contact other connector body surfaces. A very thin coating of grease is sometimes recommended for certain connectors. It should not be applied directly to any electrical contacts.
In the case of the connector shown in linked images (above), that connector shows a greenish-blue corrosion that is typical for oxidized copper. The connector is in bad condition. It appears that there is a male contact missing.
The individual contacts in the connector body can be removed. They load into the connector body from the rear. Generally a specialized small tool is used to aid in removal of such contacts. The tool can take the form of a circular tube that is pushed over the male contact, into the body of the connector, where it pushed down on the latching spring of the contact, allowing the contact to be pulled out from the rear. Check with an older OMC dealer for advice on how to service the connector.
It is also possible to eliminate the connector completely, and just fashion your own interconnection for the circuits involved. You could use something as simple as single-conductor connectors to connect the several circuits individually to their appropriate other circuit. For example, you could use something like the ones seen at this resource:
http://www.cycleterminal.com/bullet-connectors.html
Or, you could buy all new terminals for the Amphenol connector, and recreate the original connector. I don't know of an aftermarket source for those connector parts. Check with your OMC dealer to see if the parts are still available from Evinrude. Or you might find an old engine that has been scrapped for parts and harvest its electrical harness.
I illustrate the large circular red rubber-body Amphenol connector in an article in REFERENCE that discusses ignition switch wiring. Here is the illustration from that article:
Source: http://continuouswave.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2798
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